Sheesha Pipe

Sheesha pipe

Do you mean the hubbly bubbly pipe?
Yes, in Egypt its correct name is the sheesha, elsewhere the water pipe is know as the narghile, hookah, or kalian
And it looks like a bagpipe with a specimen jar attached?
Please, show a little respect. The sheesha is a sophisticated smoking device evolved to perfection in Istanbul and taken up throughout the old Ottoman Empire.
Is it popular today?
Less so in Turkey but very much so in the Middle East, particularily Egypt where it continues to provide the smoothest smoke know to man.
So are you a big fan?
Well if you are going to smoke this is the most civilised and social way to do it. The large pipe is practically a piece of furniture so you have to sit still and relax with it. This leads to a more medative approach and gives you the chance to appreciate the conversation and company of your fellow smokers.
Better than a quick drag on a fag?
The etiquette and traditions of the sheesha makes it the cordon bleu of smoking compared to the fast food of the new fangled cigarette.
Where is the best place to enjoy this sublime smoke?
Cairo, which is full of small cafes called ahwas where you can enjoy the twin evils of tobacco and caffeine to your heart's content. One of the oldest and most famous is el-Fishawi in the Khan el-Kalili market. The cafe is open twenty four hours and is an atmospheric den of dally, catering for regular idlers from Cairo and bemused tourists taking a break from the rigours of Egyptian shopping.
So how should one proceed?
Simply take a seat and when the waiter comes round add the magic word, sheesha to your order of tea or coffee. If given the choice the best tobacco to start with is the milder fruit flavoured tofah, apple being the most common. The pipe will arrive a few minutes later with a comforting pile of glowing charcoal on top. Make sure the waiter gives you a fresh plastic smoking tip, then sit pack and enjoy a leisurely paced twenty minute puff that should set your toes tingling.
Any smoking tips?
1Suck hard enough to create the satifying bubbling in the water jar, but don't inhale.
2 Occasionally check the top of the water jar for smoke. If it is cloudy gently blow down the pipe and the stale fumes will escape through a special side valve.
3 Like any civilised pastime there are rules of manners to obey: it is greatly frowned upon to light a cigarette on the sheesha fire because it is felt that it disturbs the rhythm of the burning charcoal and always keep the pipe on level ground, never on the table.
Is there anything special about the water in a water pipe?
Any fresh water will do, just ask the waiter to change it if it is brown with nicotine. The Egyptians sometimes put a slice of lemon into the water to freshen it or add pomegranate juice or rosewater to give it a sweet flavour. Ex pat Europeans have been known to use wine, beer or even whisky in the jar. Not to be recommended - not only does it ruin the purity of the smoke but it also sounds like a serious fire and health hazard.
Where can I buy one to bring home?
To find sheesha heaven go north of the Khan el-Khalili market on the long old narrow road called Sharia el-Muizz. Stop when you get to close to the Al Aqmar Mosque. This is the metalworking area of the market, full of stalls and small shops selling giant pots pans, braziers, and sheeshas of every shape and size. Dotted amongst the vendors are also makers and repairers; very useful if your old pipe needs a refit.
What should I look out for when buying?
1.If you are after a working model, avoid the smaller ornamental pipes as they do not cool and filter the smoke as well as the metre high classics found in most cafes.
2. Industry standard stainless steels pipes are much better than the mock antique brass ones.
3 Feel free to mix and match your own combination of jar, body and pipe. The seller should be willing to put any arrangement together...the chap I bought mine from even made a telephone call to get the blue ringed jar I wanted to complete my ensemble creation.
4 Once assembled check the seals by blowing down the pipe. The only air escaping should be from the side valve.
5.Make sure you get all the kit which should include tongs for charcoal...filters for communal use...and of course the moist sheesha tobacco which is difficult to find in Europe. The clay pot at the top called the hagar is particularly important as a pipe with only a metal bowl will produce a bitter hot smoke.
And how much should I pay ?
You can pay anything between 25 to 100 Eygptian pounds. ( 5 to 20) It really depends upon how much you value your new pipe and how much you enjoy a good haggle.

John Morris

John Morris stayed at the Cairo Sheraton as a guest of the Egyptian State Tourist Board. 0207 493 5283